Slobodanka Graham

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I’m going to Belgrade and Montenegro

I’m going to Belgrade and Montenegro

I first visited Belgrade in 1977. At that time, I went out of a sense of duty and curiosity; my life up to that point had been coloured by my mother’s love of the city, her longing to be there, and her sadness at having left.

Since that first visit, I’ve been many more times. I’m drawn by family, tradition, culture and lifestyle.

I was fortunate to go once with my mother when she was 87 to visit my aunt, who was 90 at that time. These two Belgrade stalwarts took me by the hand and showed me the Belgrade of their youth: where my parents married; where they celebrated their wedding; where my father took my mother dancing; where they lived after the Second World War. This experience enriched my sense of the city; I learnt to appreciate it more. 

Sketching the River Saga

In 2016 I took a sketchbook with me. I did that again in 2019. Those early sketches became Summer Sketches: Belgrade and Montenegro, a book of nostalgia and travel. After the launch, I was inspired to talk about this book, and why I created it. Watch this video for my story.

What I plan to sketch. 

These days, the very first thing I do after I check into my hotel is to walk along the Knez Mihailova (Belgrade’s pedestrian shopping precinct), admiring the buildings and the cafes. There’s plenty of inspiration to sketch from there and from Kalemegdan, the fortress overlooking the Sava and Danube River. I have other favourite destinations: the Hram or Sveti Sava Cathedral; the National Library of Serbia; the food and produce markets; and the Majestik Hotel, where I stay each visit.

In Montenegro, I stay in a house built in the early part of the 19 Century. It’s across the road from the beach where each morning I slip into the Adriatic. The sketching opportunities are abundant: the beach, the boats, Porto Montenegro, the Boka Kotor, the ancient cities of Kotor, Perast, Budva and more.

Porto Montenegro

This year I’ll be joined by a fellow urban sketcher, Denis, from Paris. He and I will sketch together and perhaps produce another book of our experience.

How I prepare for the trip. 

I’m an extreme light traveller. I take only 7 kgs in my carry on bag plus a small handbag. This is plenty for 3 weeks away. My packing list is simple: one skirt; one pair of pants; 3 tops; one pair of shoes; one pair of sandals; a bather; a beach wrap; one nightie and one gown; a few pairs of panties and socks and one bra. On board the plane I wear leggings, a t-shirt, perhaps a sweater and I take one jacket. I take only essential toiletries and buy suntan lotion at the beach. 

My roller bag and handbag

The light packing trick is to make sure everything goes with everything else: I can wear all the tops with all the bottoms. For the evening, I might take a fancy necklace. Or I might buy myself a silk scarf in Montenegro. I wear the same shoes and sandals everywhere. It’s summer, which of course makes it easier.

Art supplies and tools I'm taking with me.

I’ve spent more time thinking about my drawing materials than my clothes. I’ve decided on the following: one Sennheiser sketchbook for Belgrade. One Indigo (Artway) concertina sketchbook for Montenegro. One fude fountain pen. One small Derwent box of watercolours. I’m  taking a foldable sketch stool. And one crushable Panama hat.

I’ll be posting as I go. I encourage you to follow my journey via Instagram.

Support me by buying the book: Summer Sketches: Belgrade and Montenegro










How much carry-on may you take?

How much carry-on may you take?